Ready-to-wear vs. tailor-made; the difference is price.
In days gone by, a tailor-made suit was often a sign of wealth and a common signifier of a first class man. It was synonymous with crime gangs like the Mafia and smooth operators like a character out of Boardwalk Empire or Underbelly Razor. It was a statement, a warning, a style; and still is today but it often comes with a hefty price tag attached.
Today technology has enabled the production of large quantities of suits in multiple styles and sizes whilst maintaining a high level of quality. So the average man – the type who doesn’t know the difference between Prada and Ralph Lauren – can still look as suave as Gossip Girl heartthrob Chuck Bass. Simon Crompton, menswear journalist and founder of the popular UK blog Permanent Style, says a well-fitting suit can be extremely flattering and is always worth investing in, but men often don’t know where to start and are often ignorant when it comes to what to look for.
“Ready-to-wear is underused, made to measure is ignored and bespoke is misunderstood,” said Crompton. “For the most important times in your life, it gives you and your attire a sense of occasion. If worn every day in the office, it will become a stamp of quiet authority that stays with you through the week, and, with others it can affect how they see you.”
If you’re feeling overwhelmed or the thought of cravats, lapels and coloured pocket squares gives you a headache, stress less by using a few pointers to help you when buying off-the-rack.
1. First stop: department store
The first point of call when looking to purchase a suit is to scope out a department store. Myer and David Jones are your best bet. This way you’ll be able to try and test a variety of brands instead of just one or two. Know what style of suit you’re looking for and when doing a hot lap of the suit section grab anything that you think might work. Keep prices in mind and whether garments retail as suit separates or as a whole suit. Once you’ve culled the collection down to a few favourites, hit the change room and seek advice from a sales person who knows what they’re talking about. But beware of the sly sales techniques like up selling and pushy demeanours. You’re the one that’s going to wear the suit so you have to feel comfortable.
2. Size is key
It sounds obvious but it’s easy to get it wrong. How a suit fits to your body is the most vital component of getting it right. The suit’s shoulders should clinch yours. TIP: If you stand sideways against a wall and the suit shoulder touches the wall before yours does, go down a size. Make sure the suit hugs your chest and can be easily buttoned up. Move around and be sure the suit doesn’t restrict you from doing everyday things. Depending on your style, a normal suit’s length should allow you to cup your fingers under the sides of your suit jacket when your arms are hanging by your side.
3. Cuts and Styles
Be aware of your body shape and how you want your suit to fit. The amount of buttons is key to determine a suit style. The two-button suit is your safest bet and this season they’re slim, streamlined and modern. It will not only make you look on par with the current trend, this style can transcend the seasons and keep you looking classy for years to come. The notch lapel comes with pretty much any standard style suit and always cuts a dashing figure. But if you want to tap into old-school elegance go for a peak lapel.
4. Vests, pleats, ties and cufflinks
When it comes to added extras think about whether these match the occasion and how these can add or detract from your suit. Vests look cool at a formal affair but there’s really no need to wear them on a day-to-day basis. Pleats are okay but flat-front pants are more popular. Just see what suits you best. Ties and bowties are interchangeable and look good on any standard suit. But bowties are the only tie to wear with a tuxedo. Cufflinks can add personality and can be a fun way to show your business or even quirky side. Stick to plain colours for work and add some colour for a wedding or a night time function.
5. Tailor, Tailor, Tailor
When it comes to ready-to-wear of course not every style or cut of suit will look good on you. But as long as you have a suit that fits and are happy with the overall feel, a tailor can customise the suit to your body. Lengths of sleeves can be altered and narrowed, jackets can be tapered and pants can be taken in, let out or even hemmed. So your finished product will have you looking sharp and feeling schmick without burning a hole in your wallet.
For more information on finding your perfect fit head on into David Jones or Myer to find your well fitted suit.